Ancient routes / pass to Tibet from johar valley

Recently I read in the news papers that ITBP Mirthi has initiated dispatching search teams to trace ancient indo-Tibet trade routes, keeping in view, in the event of excessive damages at various points of present day route due to heavy rains transportation is disrupted, therefore to avoid such inconveniences and possible hazards these ancient routes after proper repairs can be used as alternate routes. Subsequently in other valleys bordering with china the same process may be followed in order to increase comfort level and hazard free road users during tiresome journey. This inevitable problem was experienced in recent years during kailash mansarobar yatra, troop movements within Indian side and trader’s movement through lipulek pass, we belong to johar valley ( naturally our concern will be for our ancestors place and trade pass also ) for decades our link to china was through utadhura pass although this is closed after India-china war. Once it was main trade pass, hectic trade activities engaged maximum number of people; this is why trade with Tibet was our traders’ means of livelihood in the past. It is hard truth that in the ancient times trade routes were not followed that are commonly known to present generation. Over a period of time because of climate change and global warming effect these roads could not be utilized as glaciers started shrinking making travel impossible over the glaciers and traces of routes were almost invisible except at few points it gave the impression that indicated existence of kuchcha road. Nevertheless it is a hard truth neither the government nor the valley people were serious to find out about the truth of ancient bridle roads connecting Tibet part of china. Otherwise findings could have revealed astonishing facts relating to people, trade, means of transport, places of camps and much vital information benefiting present generation to know about their ancestors.  




                                                                           NAHAR DEVI : ROCK MOUNTAIN

 

While I write about ancient link roads to china, my memoirs of late 1960s compel and encourage me to give space exploring possibilities of ancient trade routes during the period I was at home after doing graduation from luck now Christian college, then a prestigious and the most admired for strict disciplined college of Lucknow university.. We never imagined outside the academic boundary, how, in near future the definition of political leaders will change, where honesty, sincerity, simplicity, service, knowledge and above all development pursuits will have no consideration, only the leader’s  caste, class, religion, color or region will become the victory mantra. That is why some ordinary leaders have achieved leading positions in politics thus polluting the clean environment of society, thus dividing the same in class, caste, religion, region and color segments for their own dirty politics. This experience developed a serious thought inside me that one day these so called greedy and selfish leaders will be eliminated; spread of education across the country will make it possible. These narrow-minded people can not perceive formidable Chinese military power threat. Parliament can not discuss honestly about Chinese threat perception in depth despite having some of the members of parliament brilliant and good knowledge of defense mechanism and excellent defense assessment capability. Their wisdom can not be harnessed in the crowd of senseless members who are there only because of caste and class support, they fight like wrestling in the political arena and create chaotic condition in the house to remain visible and spoil valuable time of parliament, thus potential members decide to keep low profile. I appreciate present defence minister who dare to send strong messages time to time to mighty china and paying attention aggressively in developing infrastructure at par with china across the India-china border in view of persistent reports about worsening border situation and defence experts’ analysis of defence preparedness and comparative military strength of both the countries along the border line. We being residents of border area of johar valley are very much confident about our military’s fighting power and will stand with the country because we love our motherland. Government has started urgent and necessary positive steps in terms of strengthening our security set up and infrastructure expansion to enable troops rapid deployment, border people will no doubt, will like to fight along with army against enemy if circumstances turns to confrontation level. I do not wish to go in detailed description about India-china border deteriorating   situation. I wish good sense will prevail and two rising powers will avoid uneasy environment. Here my aim was to emphasize about alternate routes and its usefulness.

 As I remember it was 1968 while I was at home in dumar village near sri hari smarak built in the memory of late hari Singh jangpangi (great freedom fighter, activists, amazing social reformist, staunch supporter of mahatma Gandhi’s social order and swaraj thought) there is a big stone called khundhuru dhung just before the house of ex. Hawaldar of Indian army sri durga Singh. son of late kishan Singh jangpangi, one day I was standing over the stone looking towards hans- ling, a giant stone rock naked mountain in the background of  rupsiabagar and realizing nature’s toughness sometimes become beauty of nature. During this thinking process I saw late Mali Devi a tall lady aged approximately 75years mother of durgu-da (durga Singh jangpangi) also came there. On many occasions I found she was always mentioning about past happenings and interesting stories, she was sharing her experiences and knowledge about what elders narrated. On this date she told me about ancient routes to Tibet which was not less than a astonishing discloser. I estimated she was mentioning about eighteen hundred century or little earlier period. Although she was illiterate but she had photogenic memory and her information had tremendous importance in terms of ancient routes used by johari traders. According to her what she heard from elder ladies of her village while she was a small girl, that route to Tibet was from burfu being nearer to Tibet and safe route because route was through glaciers, therefore going over the glaciers along with flocks of animals, only means of transportation of goods. Gradual global warming, climate change caused receding of glaciers resulting loss of men and animals while passing over the glaciers. There after traders searched new pass that was luksar, it was a little lengthy but was being commonly used. This pass also continued for many years, over a period of time the same situation developed due to shrinking of glaciers and trade route had to be abandoned due to colossal loss of human lives and animals along with valuable goods. Ultimately uttadhura pass became the way to Tibet part of china. This was the toughest pass but traders were compelled to cross through uttadhura pass to Tibet for trade.

   Personally I wish whatever stories have been narrated by our elders about link roads to Tibet from johar valley and other historical facts on hearsay or passed on down to generations or so called historians who write on the basis of others narration pretending as if it is their research work should be verified carefully since wrong facts can mislead coming generations. Although written evidences are not possible but physical traces can be obtained if we follow the routes mentioned passed on by our elders, if we investigate effectively. In fact, we can request the government to discover genuineness about the possible alternate routes used by the earliest traders as narrated by elders that was passed on down to generations. Further, these supporting evidences will lead us to come to conclusion for relevance of facts mentioned. However, there are many questions which remain unanswered till now, such as, whether ancient traders were our ancestors? Who are their descendents? Is it possible that entire ancient tribe vanished due to natural disaster? Further who are the descendents of shunpati shauka? Consequently, it is true during nineteen century or a little earlier people from lower part on Indian side started coming towards munsiari johar valley because of comparatively better economic condition and increasing business activities.

  Now we have to reach decisively on the basis of facts to determine who actually were our ancestors? If we say shunpati sauka it is more than a thousands years old history of ours since we arrive to the conclusion through jagar which is sung throughout kumaon relating to legendry love story about rajula-malushahi. Rajula the beautiful and intelligent daughter of sunpati sauka a bhotia tribe trader of Tibetan goods. Malushahi, the king during which katyuri dynasty was disintegrating in to independent states. Malushahi ruled from bairath, near present day Dwarahat. He was already married to seven queens falls in love with Rajula, their romantic adventure in search of one another take them to the far corners of the Himalayas. Munsiari falls on the ancient salt route from Tibet and is at the entrance the johar valley, which extends along with the path of gori Ganga River, to its source is Milam glacier. Picturesque mountains of munsiari have plenty of trekking routes. The valley of gori is a trekking paradise and there are a number of fabulous treks munsiari to Milam ralam glaciers.

  Traditionally, in the beginning the shaukas lived a nomadic life but gradually they managed pucca houses and agricultural lands in johar valley, munsiari and talla desh traveling with their large pack goat, sheep and ponies from the trade post of gartok and gyanima in Tibet across the innumerable ridges and valleys of kumaon in to gangetic plain. The annual migration of their caravan took place along established trade routes, for the shaukas were legendary traders and trans Himalayan trade partnership with nomadic Tibetan khampas and dopkas were formed and nurtured over generations until china invaded Tibet and subsequent Sino Indian war in 1962 caused trade to be stopped completely. Definitely this caused great upheaval in the lives of the shaukas nomadic trade that was in their blood and they maintained vast flocks of pack animals for the sole purpose of transporting costly goods over the hundreds of miles of which separates Tibet from plain of India.  In my opinion situations reveal on the basis of stories from the early times down to present day our ancestor was sunpati shauka rather than other perceptions, however, we have another view also that natives of johar munsiari were barpatias.presently they are residing on the both side of gori river near madkote area. They also claim that barpatias are the early settlers of munsiari; hence we need to know their actual period. It will be apprepriorate to harness the knowledge of most aged persons who possess historical facts passed on to them by their elders about johar munsiari. As there are many complex questions those answers the present generation would like to know. They want clarity.

Although I am not a historian, being in marketing side for decades working in different places observing people, discussing with people besides professional job, my love for knowing more about people, place, geography, history, culture and tradition helped me in my profession as well as know people and places better and develop observation skill.. My interaction with all segments of people, sharing with them and passion for books helped me a lot. Discovering ancient trade routes will probably lead us to many hidden facts about early settlers and ancient traders like means of transportation, high range Himalayan hazardous lives, gradual global warming, receding of glaciers, possible changing routes which we earnestly need to come to definite conclusion on the basis of truthful evidences from various angles. We are fortunate our present generation is extremely adventurous, ambitious and enthusiastic to work for the community. Their motto look towards ancestors native place and revive deserted villages must be appreciated by all of us. They seem to be ready to lead in the valley to create awareness whether it is about  to know our ancestors trade, trade routes, conservation of forest, herbs, and plants, carbon  free environment, gradual global warming and shrinking of glaciers. They are promising, daring, committed and competent to make a difference.



NANDA DEVI TAMPLE: MARTOLI



Besides, eagerness to know about ancient society set up and management of movements in hazardous situations, it is difficult to analyze strong mental power and physical toughness. Present generation took advantage of our ancestors risky movements and turned it in to adventurous sports, trekking, mountaineering so and so. As a result our area has produced a lot of Everest and international climbers, skiers, trekkers. We shall emphasize on eco-tourism. Traditionally our people know how to turn the difficulties in to opportunities. This year martoli village celebrated silver jubilee of stopping of animal sacrifice in Nanda Devi pujai as advised by martoli baba, it was a noble job endorsed by all. They invited and requested baba ji to visit on this occasion for his blessings and bhagwat katha who in spite of age factor accepted the request and people of johar were glad to listen to bhagwat katha from baba, the vedantacharya, after many decades. Bhagwat katha was organized by officers and others of native village martoli. Subsequently a group of tolias under the leadership of sri Mohan Singh tolia who are settled outside organized a meeting at tola village regarding renovation of sri Raghunath temple, initiating some constructive activities and raga pujai. I congratulate martolias and tolias for their commitments. Similarly small young groups of other villages conducted trips to their native places. It is a positive trend in young generation guided by their foresighted elders. This year visitors to johar valley had to face the worst road conditions due to heavy and continuous rain falls. We can well imagine when there were no proper roads and bridges how difficult it was to lead nomadic life. We salute them for there daring spirit and unbelievable movements.

                                                                                                                       Devender jangpangi